Valentino, Lightness is All: SuzyCouture

Valentino, Lightness is All: SuzyCouture
Valentino, Lightness is All: SuzyCouture

The audience rose to its feet to congratulate Pierpaolo Piccioli on an emotionally charged collection that was both artistic and easy

From the first moment of the Valentino show – sending out colours from sky blue through sunset mauve to grass green for a coat swinging over Bordeaux trousers – you knew that it could only end in tears. Tears of joy and love at the mad, poetic dream of haute couture.

First to his feet as the operatic arias on the soundtrack reached their crescendo was Valentino Garavani, who is in the rare position of seeing the house he nurtured burst into a second bloom. Not only his own fashion family, but also clients dressed up for 4th of July parties, rose to their feet to salute the designer, who, in turn, hugged his wife and children and then Valentino and his colleagues.

Valentino, Lightness is All: SuzyCouture
Valentino, Lightness is All: SuzyCouture

Valentino Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2018

INDIGITAL

Guests were left dizzy by the flow of ever-changing textures, from slithering satin to appliquéd patterns, or the artistic mixes of colour for the most casual of outfits – say a yellow, frilled taffeta shirt with a pair of olive-green shorts.

Two things marked this show as exceptional: the way that references to history or more random artistic elements were folded seamlessly into the clothes; and the techniques of the Roman ateliers that enabled the designer to embrace a shape from the past but transform it to the lightness and ease of the present. What would have been a weighty robe in its previous incarnation became as light as the proverbial feather. As the designer put it, “We took away the weight.”

“This season, I didn’t want to think of a story before starting. I wanted to have an approach more in sync with the fabric and colours, and I wanted to go in very deeply – from the heart,” Pierpaolo said, stroking a dress whose abstract historical patterns melded with green and pink satin.

Valentino, Lightness is All: SuzyCouture
Valentino, Lightness is All: SuzyCouture

Valentino Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2018

INDIGITAL

“I saw that I was putting different shapes – silhouettes from Greek mythology, angels and innocents – all together,” said the designer. “It didn’t make sense, but I decided to go with this sort of consciousness. No thinking, just fluid movement and putting together the references to create imagination.”

Pierpaolo went on to describe his relationship with his petites mains – the seamstresses who were devoted to an outfit for up to two months, thus leaving them with personal memories of their lives during its creation. But while he saw their work as a baptism – the dress is born and welcomed into the Valentino family – to himself, couture is a vision of “beauty, purity and intimacy”.

Valentino, Lightness is All: SuzyCouture
Valentino, Lightness is All: SuzyCouture

Refreshing the codes of the evening gown for the 21st century at Valentino Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2018

ANDREEA MACRI/INDIGITAL.TV

I wonder if anyone but an Italian would dare to reference so many different cultures – and colours. Those two elements came through in the clothes as, in one ensemble, the easy tailoring of a ginger coat slipped over gilded trousers; or an outfit with similar simplicity in cut and shape, but with a dense pattern.

For another outfit, the designer showed me tiny samples of 18 fabrics, all different in colour, whose textures were appliquéd on the actual dress to create a pattern of a Caravaggio painting. “I started with Greek mythology, and Narcissus by Caravaggio. I wanted to reclaim it in a more distinctive way, so the design is a more elementary sketch. At the very end when you see it, you miss the sketch, it’s all about colours and fabric.”

But why, in this age of sneakers and logo sweatshirts, would a scarlet satin dress, dense with frills, have any appeal? The answer is that these Valentino creations do not require a reality check. They are simple clothes, made magical by colour, texture, and cut – and always with a sense of ease, freedom, and lightness in relation to the body.

Valentino, Lightness is All: SuzyCouture
Valentino, Lightness is All: SuzyCouture

Tiers of ruffles at Valentino Haute/Couture, Autumn/Winter 2018

ANDREEA MACRI/INDIGITAL.TV

Watching the models walk by, covered in these undulating, airy outfits, the clothes, for all their intense workmanship, seemed spontaneous and effortless.

“An Apollonian spontaneity pervades everything,” was Pierpaolo’s way of expressing the culture of his country and the ease of the clothes. “I have a sense of memory because of course the memories are there,” he said. “Sometimes there are very old techniques, but we see a different way. I can’t say what it is, but it’s about volume, lightness, Madonna meets Versailles. I don’t know what it is any more.”

Maybe one word says it all: beauty. A chance to dream – in our often rough and ugly times.

20 Comments

  1. Really useful tip – went straight back and added a question at the end of my last post. I had been too intent on ending with a chirpy one liner! Having just started a wedding blog I need to start from basics to get some responses. Thank you.
    Useful post thanks. I’m definitely guilty of signing off posts with a conclusion that doesn’t open up the post for debate, which is often something I’d be interested in.

  2. Useful post thanks. I’m definitely guilty of signing off posts with a conclusion that doesn’t open up the post for debate, which is often something I’d be interested in.
    Do people here think this comes across bad, or do you agree that done correctly is just an innocent way to encourage other folk to comment?

  3. I’m a fledgling blogger. I have dedicated time in the next 4 weeks to study techniques which will improve my writing. I appreciate the question you posed about questions. It’s made me ponder the questions I ask at the end of my posts and how I construct my writing. Thanks!
    Very usefull techniq. Do it as much as you can. Don’t care about the nofollow tags. Some search engine spiders still follows the nofollow links.

  4. Moderating is what I do when people start to hit each other with the shovels in the sandbox. I’m interacting. It’s way more fun.
    Well, you have opened my eyes, almost all my posts can be read like ” info info info more info… GET OUT”I have added some “open-ended questions” to some of my popular posts, we will see where that will take us.

  5. Thanks for the helpful post. I have a journalistic blog and people comment to me in person and via email but they rarely leave comments on the site. Being a print journalist who’s moving online, I guess I’m used to telling a story – beginning, middle and end! Any suggestions on how I can get more interaction?
    I’m coming in rather late here but there’s something I’ve been wondering about and maybe someone here can throw some light on it?

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